William J. printing plate
Wooden printing block with metal plate affixed to the front. Block reads “William J. / 44 West 54th Street,” written backwards.
William John “Bill” Cunningham (1929-2016) was a long-time New York Times photographer and journalist known for his “On the Street” and “Evening Hours” columns. A cultural anthropologist as much as a fashion photographer, Cunningham became distinguished for his candid street and event photographs of New Yorkers that depicted up-to-the-minute fashion trends. Among Cunningham’s most frequent locations to photograph his candid shots was the corner of Fifth Avenue and Fifty-Seventh Street and at the “up-to-twenty galas” he attended each week.
Born in Boston, Cunningham moved to New York in 1948. Although he began working as a journalist during the early 1960s, he initially made hats in New York. Cunningham, in fact, began his career as a milliner and worked in passionately in that field for almost two decades. A visual learner who enjoyed working with his hands, he opened his own millinery shop, William J., on East 52nd Street around 1950.
Cunningham’s most striking millinery designs incorporated unusual naturalistic forms and ornament. In a 1961 interview, he acknowledged that his work was not particularly wearable, stating:
I used to do birds jumping through hoops, and the fashion press went wild over my beach hats. But my sisters would say, ‘William, who wears them?’ and I knew they were right. People do wear them, of course, but it’s really a joke.”
Cunningham began creating more wearable hats in the early 1960s, with the hope that they would be easier to sell. Unfortunately, this change happened during a time when traditional women’s hats were no longer fashionable. The two corduroy hats here, 2017.73.1 and 2017.73.2, likely date to the early 60s, when Cunningham created his most wearable fabrications. These hats are reminiscent of newsboy caps and pillbox hats, and are soft with no understructure. The address on the accompanying printing plate, 44 West 54th Street, was the location of Cunningham’s shop, William J., from 1954 to about 1960. William J. was a one-man operation, so Cunningham branded his bags and boxes himself.
Bonwit Teller charge card
Purple, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in green and white. Marked on recto: “BONWIT TELLER / [graphic of bouquet of flowers] [embossed] 261 70 299 / [embossed] MISS VIVIAN AWNER / [embossed] 890 WEST END AVE / [embossed] NEW YORK NY 10025.” Marked on verso: “[signature in blue ink] Vivian Awner / PLEASE SIGN HERE IN INK / THIS CARD IDENTIFIES YOU AS A BONWIT CUSTOMER. / IT WILL BE HONORED AT ALL BONWIT TELLER STORES, / AND SHOPPING WILL BE SO MUCH EASIER IF YOU / REMEMBER TO CARRY IT WITH YOU AT ALL TIMES.”
This charge card issued by Bonwit Teller, a New York City department store open from 1895 to 1989.
B. Altman & Co. charge card
Coral, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in red. Marked on recto: “[in script] B Altman & Co / [embossed] 08 324 923 / [embossed] MRS OSCAR AWNER / [embossed] 890 WEST END AVE / [embossed] NEW YORK NY 10025.” Marked on verso: “[decorative band around all edges] USE THIS CARD IN ALL ALTMAN STORES / [signature in red ink] Mrs. Oscar Awner / [in script] B Altman & Co / FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK.”
This charge card was issued by B. Altman & Co., a New York City department store open from 1865 to 1990.
Abraham & Straus charge card
Green, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in white and blue. Marked on recto: “ABRAHAM & STRAUS / A&S / [embossed] 464 57 911 / [embossed] MRS OSCAR AWNER.” Marked on verso: “[signature in blue ink] Vivian Awner / SIGNATURE / This card is designed for your shipping convenience and / will be honored at all A&S stores. Please present it when / purchasing to assure prompt service and accuracy. / For your own protection, if card is lost or stolen, / immediately report the loss to A&S Credit Office. / Abraham & Straus, 420 Fulton Street, Brooklyn, N.Y. 11201.”
This charge card was issued by Abraham & Straus, a New York City department store open from 1865 to 1994.
Ohrbach's charge card
Description: Black, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in white on recto; on verso, white [discolored] printed in black. Marked on recto: “OHRBACH’S / fashion plate TM / [embossed] 59 24 11224 / [embossed] OSCAR L AWNER.” Marked on verso: “This card remains our property. It may be revoked without / notice to you or repossessed at any time, and must be sur- / rendered upon demand. By signing or using this card, within the limits established by / law, before the card is surrendered to us or we have received / notice that it has been lost or stolen. / [signature in blue ink] Vivian Awner / [in oval] KIRK.”
This charge card was issued by Ohrbach's, a New York City department store open from 1923 to 1987.
E. J. Korvette charge card
White, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in teal and gold. Marked on verso: “[symbol of spiral and leaves] Korvettes / PERSONAL CHARGE PLATE / U.S. PAT. NO 3.034.430 / [signature in blue ink] Mrs. Oscar L. Awner / [embossed] 0301 027 740 2 / PLEASE SIGN ABOVE IN INK – NOT TRANSFERABLE – REPORT PROMPTLY IF LOST OR STOLEN / [embossed] MRS OSCAR L AWNER.” No marks on verso.
This charge card was issued by E. J. Korvette, a New York City discount store open from 1948 to 1980.
Gimbels charge card
White, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in gray/black. Marked on recto: “Gimbels / NEW YORK AND ALL BRANCH STORES / [embossed] 890 WEST END AVE / [embossed] NEW YORK NY 10025.” Marked on verso: “This card is property of Gimbels and must be surrendered upon demand. / SIGN HERE: [signature in red ink] Mrs. Oscar Awner / FOR YOUR PROTECTION: Please report the loss or theft of / this credit card immediately, as you are liable and responsible for all / purchases charged through its use until written notice of its loss or / theft is recorded by Gimbels. / [large capital “G” symbol] Gimbels”
This charge card was issued by Gimbel's, a New York City department store open from 1887 to 1987.
Stern’s Department Store charge card
White, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in black. Marked on recto: “STERN’S / [embossed] 516 116 71 01 0 / [embossed] RUTH AWNER / [symbol] A UNIT OF ALLIED STORES.” Marked on verso: “This card is property of Stern’s and may be cancelled or modified / at any time, and you agree to return this card to Stern’s upon request. / This card will be honored in all Stern’s stores. Please notify Stern’s / immediately of loss or theft. / Please sign below in ink / [signature in faded blue ink]”
This charge card was issued by Stern's, a New York City department store open from 1867 to 2001.
Read’s Department Store charge card
White, plastic card with rounded corners, printed in brown. Marked on recto: “READ’S / THIS CREDIT CARD MAY BE USED AT ALL READS STORES / [embossed] 0596 541 3 03 0 / [embossed] VIVIAN B AWNER / [symbol] A UNIT OF ALLIED STORES.” Marked on verso: “This card is the property of Reads and may be cancelled or / modified at anytime, and you agree to return this card to / Reads upon request. This card will be honored in all Reads / stores. Please notify Reads immediately of loss or theft. / Please sign below in ink / [signature in blue ink]”
This charge card is from a New York York City department store, Read's, active from 1857 to 1993.
Geometrical lathe
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